24 Hours in Stockholm

Save
24 Hours in Stockholm
Stockholm's archipelago consists of more than 30,000 islands. Oleksiy Mark/Shutterstock
Updated:
Royal, regal, but undeniably quirky, Sweden’s spirited capital has a lot to offer. Progenitor of both the world-renowned Nobel Prizes and campy favorite band ABBA, this Scandinavian gem offers a breadth of experiences that boggle the mind. That can make it a challenge to experience in just 24 hours—especially when you consider the fact that this city of about 1 million people is actually set on an archipelago, something that surprises many first-time visitors.
Spread across a total of 14 islands on the edge of the Baltic Sea, your time here will be cultural, historical—and nautical by design. The water is a fun, added element as you ride little ferries to the next attraction or experience. Here’s a guide to getting the most out of a single day in this Nordic dynamo.

Arrival

Landing at Stockholm’s Arlanda Airport (ARN) feels a little like arriving at an oversized northern lodge. About 23 miles north of the city center, it’s surrounded by lakes and forests. Its terminals feature lovely, blonde wood floors that are even more beautiful when illuminated by the massive walls of windows that bring all that nature outside into the bustling concourses.
This is Sweden’s busiest airport and a hub for both Norwegian Air Shuttle and Scandinavian Airlines. The latter serves as the national flag carrier for three countries—Denmark, Norway, and Sweden—and its headquarters is in Stockholm. The airport is well-connected to capitals across Europe, as well as select cities around the world—including Tokyo; Bangkok; Istanbul; Dubai, United Arab Emirates; and Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. However, if you’re flying from North America, most direct routes are seasonal, including nonstop flights from New York City, Toronto, and Miami.
In a country where few things come cheap, taxi and ride-share services from ARN to the middle of Stockholm aren’t that expensive. The ride takes 30 to 45 minutes, depending on traffic and your exact destination, and costs between $30 and $60. But the Arlanda Express train is probably your best option. Its slogan: “Yes, the train is faster.” And it is, as it connects the airport’s three underground stations with Stockholm Central Station in just 18 minutes. A one-way ticket will set you back 340 Swedish krona (a little more than $30), a price that’s reduced if you’re older than 65 or younger than 25.

Morning

Once you arrive at Central Station, head next door to Stockholm City Hall. In most places, the nucleus of municipal bureaucracy isn’t a prime tourist attraction. But this building is really rather lovely, made from red brick built in Sweden’s national romantic style, with an almost 350-foot-tall tower that you can ascend in the warmer months. 
But the highlight here is the Nobel Prizes, usually recognized as the most distinguished and esteemed awards in the world. City Hall is where laureates in chemistry, physics, medicine, and literature collect their 24-karat gold medal (along with a significant cash reward). They do so in style. Take a guided tour to see the Blue Hall, where the Nobel Prize banquet is held. Stroll down the Golden Hall, gilded with 18 million gold mosaic tiles, where the winners and other distinguished guests dance the night away afterward. 
From there, it’s a short walk to Gamla Stan (Old Town). The quickest route takes less than 15 to 20 minutes on foot. If you’re up for a small detour, walk a little to the east and then south, crossing the three arches of Norrbro, a neoclassical stone bridge built back in 1797.
Stockholm City Hall is the venue for the Nobel Prize banquet, held annually on Dec. 10 in the Blue Hall. (Vadim Fedotov/Shutterstock)
Stockholm City Hall is the venue for the Nobel Prize banquet, held annually on Dec. 10 in the Blue Hall. Vadim Fedotov/Shutterstock
<span data-sheets-root="1">Inside Stockholm City Hall, the Golden Hall, which is decorated with 18 million gold mosaic tiles, is the setting for the ball following the Nobel Prize banquet</span>. (Mats Wiklund/Shutterstock)
Inside Stockholm City Hall, the Golden Hall, which is decorated with 18 million gold mosaic tiles, is the setting for the ball following the Nobel Prize banquet. Mats Wiklund/Shutterstock

You’ll quickly reach Helgeandsholmen, a small but very important islet in the middle of Norrstrom, one of Europe’s shortest rivers. Stretch your legs on the paths in Riksplan park. Then take a moment to stroll past Riksdagshuset, the seat of Sweden’s national Parliament. If you’re into policy or especially interested in Sweden’s constitutional monarchy system, the building offers 55-minute tours, free of charge. It also provides a separate, guided tour of the 4,000 works of art within, although, word to the wise—these tours are offered only in Swedish.

Gamla Stan is everything an old town should be. Dating back to the 13th century, it’s situated on the island of Stadsholmen. Although there’s still a packed schedule ahead on this one-day visit, take at least a little time to wander the winding cobblestone streets, past graceful, well-preserved 16th- and 17th-century buildings.

After a stroll, you’ll definitely want to engage in the Swedish tradition of “fika.” Ostensibly, it’s a coffee break. But this has been a time-honored social ritual since soon after coffee arrived in the country in the 18th century. Fika is simply a rearrangement of the letters in “kaffi,” an antiquated spelling for coffee.

Now coffee is so ingrained in the culture that employment contracts include breaks for fika as a necessary clause. Cafe Schweizer is a very good place to sit down over a steaming cup and a pastry or perhaps apple strudel, one of the establishment’s specialties. A historic spot that’s been open, operating, and hosting fika in the same location since 1920, Schweizer also offers hearty fare for hungry morning diners, including scrambled eggs and smoked salmon.

Gamla Stan is home to landmarks such as the Royal Palace; Stockholm Cathedral; the Nobel Prize Museum; and Stortoget, Stockholm's oldest square. (Mistervlad/Shutterstock)
Gamla Stan is home to landmarks such as the Royal Palace; Stockholm Cathedral; the Nobel Prize Museum; and Stortoget, Stockholm's oldest square. Mistervlad/Shutterstock
image-5820582
image-5820584
Fika, the Swedish tradition of taking a break for coffee and pastries, is a deeply ingrained part of Stockholm‘s culture. Yoko Correia Nishimiya/Shutterstock, Jessica Guzik/Unsplash

Afternoon

We often think of Sweden as a small Nordic nation filled with mild-mannered people who produce quality Volvos and well-priced IKEA items—and, of course, very good hockey players. But Stockholm was once the heart of the Swedish empire, a great power that dominated the Baltic region and held overseas territories. It even established a colony called New Sweden in parts of modern-day New Jersey, Delaware, and Pennsylvania, although it lasted less than 20 years.
Some of that wealth and influence is still very apparent at the Royal Palace. Unlike many other European palaces, the Kungliga Slotten is still the actual family home and day-to-day workplace of a reigning dynasty, including His Majesty Carl XVI Gustaf, King of Sweden, whose role is now largely ceremonial.
Arrive in time for the changing of the guard, which happens at 12:15 p.m. or 1:15 p.m., depending on the day. Then tour one of the largest palaces in Europe, an imposing and impressive piece of Italian Baroque architecture with 600 rooms, 11 floors, and five museums.
The Changing of the Guard ceremony takes place daily at the Royal Palace, attracting thousands of tourists. (ArtMediaFactory/Shutterstock)
The Changing of the Guard ceremony takes place daily at the Royal Palace, attracting thousands of tourists. ArtMediaFactory/Shutterstock
You could spend an entire week inside and never see everything. But because of the busy afternoon and evening ahead, limit your visit to the highlights, perhaps using the palace’s app to navigate. Key stops include the royal apartments, the Hall of State, and Queen Kristina’s silver throne.
Finally, it’s now time for a ride on a ferry. Honestly, walking to the Vasa Museum is probably easier. A little more than half an hour on foot will get you there. But it’s more fun to make your way down to Slussen, near the famous namesake locks that link Lake Malaren with the Baltic Sea. Then hop on ferry line No. 82. The ride over, through calm internal waterways, is like a very inexpensive boat tour. 
The Vasa Museum houses the Vasa, a 17th-century warship that sank on its maiden voyage in 1628. (Bumble Dee/Shutterstock)
The Vasa Museum houses the Vasa, a 17th-century warship that sank on its maiden voyage in 1628. Bumble Dee/Shutterstock
There’s no place on earth quite like the Vasa Museum. Commissioned by King Gustavus Adolphus as part of his war with Poland–Lithuania, the Vasa, a regal warship bristling with bronze cannons, made her maiden voyage in 1628. Constructed in a rush and poorly designed, with a cannon deck that was far too heavy, she sailed a few hundred yards, then promptly sank in Stockholm Harbor.
Miraculously, the brackish waters of the harbor preserved the three-masted, 225-foot wooden vessel. And 333 years later, in 1961, the grand vessel was salvaged and eventually housed in this namesake museum, now one of the most-visited museums in Scandinavia. The ship remains 98 percent original. I like to stroll the elevated walkways that surround the ship and try to picture it back when it was the pride—then the folly—of the Swedish Empire. 
The Fjaderholmarna Islands, just 30 minutes from Stockholm, are a popular day trip destination. (Micke Andersson/Getty Images)
The Fjaderholmarna Islands, just 30 minutes from Stockholm, are a popular day trip destination. Micke Andersson/Getty Images
You won’t need to walk far to find another icon, one of a very different sort. ABBA The Museum is less than 10 minutes away on foot, along pleasant waterside paths. This famed, four-person pop group stepped onto the world stage in 1974 when its song “Waterloo” became the first Swedish winner at the Eurovision Song Contest. 
Now their ultra-catchy songs inspire even the worst dancers (like me) to get up and (attempt to) bop a bit. Tunes including “Mamma Mia” and “Dancing Queen” have formed the basis for both uber-successful Hollywood movies and Broadway shows. This museum showcases ABBA’s concert costumes, instruments, gold records, and other cool memorabilia, including the actual helicopter photographed for one of the album covers. The galleries also give you a chance to record your own version of the band’s hits. You can even get up on stage and dance along with the silhouettes of band members.
image-5820579
image-5820580
ABBA The Museum pays tribute to Sweden's most famous pop group with karaoke booths, a dance floor, and ABBA memorabilia. Icelander, dotmiller1986/Shutterstock

Evening

This has been a very full day, which is the perfect excuse to enjoy a chill evening. SoFo is an excellent place to wind down. A taxi or Uber is probably the easiest option in this case—depending on traffic, it’s about a 15- to 20-minute drive from ABBA The Museum. But a combination of walking plus bus, ferry, or tunnelbana (metro) will also get you there.
Located on the island of Sodermalm, which is home to many creative types, the neighborhood of SoFo means “South of Folkungagatan.” There are obvious similarities to Soho in London and SoHo in New York City. It’s funky, cool, and laid-back; the walkable blocks are lined with incredibly esoteric boutiques.
Stockholm's "SoFo" district is similar to New York City’s SoHo, reflecting its artsy, youthful vibe. (JJFarq/Shutterstock)
Stockholm's "SoFo" district is similar to New York City’s SoHo, reflecting its artsy, youthful vibe. JJFarq/Shutterstock
You’ll find vintage shops as well as clothing and jewelry and music stores, plus lots more. On one visit, I checked out a shop that invented and produced their own board games. Another, a sneaker boutique, had a secret, speakeasy-style room showcasing expensive kicks for serious collectors.
Wander, shop, and discover. Then, eat. All the eclectic influences of SoFo come together at Nytorget Square, which is lined with bars and restaurants (many with outdoor patios in the warmer months). Bar Agrikultur is a local favorite, with its cozy atmosphere and focus on seasonal Swedish ingredients. It is listed as a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant, so reservations can be tricky and should be made well in advance. But you might get lucky—they always reserve a few spots for walk-ins. 
Then, the night is yours. Stockholm has a surprisingly lively jazz scene. If you still have the energy, head back up to Gamla Stan and walk into Stampen, a legendary venue since the 1960s, where everyone from Eartha Kitt to Dizzy Gillespie has graced the stage. Order a drink. Settle in. And let the music provide a fitting, final soundtrack to your memories from a packed and fabulous day in Sweden’s buzzing capital.
AD