Let’s Go Summer Dipping!

Prepare a lot of dip or it will run out before the chips do.

These dips won't last long at your next gathering. JeanMarie Brownson/TCA

Two of our favorite Chicago restaurants serve amazing caramelized onion dip. One uses labneh (strained Greek yogurt), and the other serves the creamy concoction with homemade potato chips. Both are beyond crave-worthy. I happily brave traffic to indulge.

Admittedly, Lipton’s “California” dip fuels our fascination. Dried onion soup stirred into sour cream for a time-tested appetizer that evokes Saturday night bridge parties and “fancy” picnics.

The upscale versions we currently obsess over crank up the flavor (and the kitchen prep). Plenty of rich, sweet onions lovingly caramelized to mahogany along with a hint of spice and tangy, protein-packed yogurt.

The recipe that follows comes together easily once the onions are caramelized—meaning a solid 30 minutes in the skillet. I double the onions so I can refrigerate the extra golden goodness for future batches of dip. The onions keep for a week or more and freeze well.

Plain yogurt or labneh makes a tangier dip base than sour cream. Feel free to use what you like. A bit of mayonnaise enriches the dip, while a little horseradish adds a pleasant pop. Serve the caramelized onion dip with thick and hearty potato chips or cut-up vegetables. I’m partial to blanched sugar snap peas here.

Seeking the pleasure of chips and dips, we try versions beyond onions and sour cream. The gorgeous Propio restaurant in the Roma Norte neighborhood of Mexico City serves a cheese and tomato dip we can’t stop thinking about.

The base of their dip is requeson, Mexico’s answer to fresh and creamy ricotta. Almonds, green tomatoes, chive oil, and pickled mustard seeds top the platter of creamy cheese. Waiters bring hunks of crusty whole-grain bread for dipping.

My riff uses ricotta seasoned with grated aged, salty Mexican cotija cheese and fruity olive oil. A combination of heirloom tomatoes and super sweet cherry tomatoes nestle on top. A handful of toasted pumpkin seeds and fresh dill make a spectacular presentation. Serve this “dip” with triangles of toasted pita or slabs of a hearty rustic bread.

Trust me, the following dips stand the test of time, but will disappear long before all the chips are eaten.

Caramelized Onion Dip

Makes 2 generous cups

• 2 large sweet onions, about 12 ounces each
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, such as sunflower, avocado, or expeller pressed canola
• 1/2 teaspoon sugar
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• Salt, freshly ground pepper to taste
• 1 1/2 cups plain Greek yogurt, labneh or sour cream
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• 3/4 teaspoon prepared horseradish
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne
• Chopped fresh chives
• Cut-up vegetables, for serving
• Potato chips, for serving

Cut onions in half. Cut each half into thin slices. Put onions into a microwave-safe bowl and add 1/4 cup water. Cover bowl with lid or plastic wrap and microwave on high, stirring once or twice, until soft and translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain well.

Heat oil in a large cast-iron or nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions; reduce heat. Cook and stir over low heat until golden and soft, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with sugar and cook, stirring often, until richly browned and caramelized, 15 to 20 minutes. Add butter and garlic and cook 2 minutes. Season with 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Onions can be made several days in advance; store covered in the refrigerator. Makes 1 generous cup.

Put 2/3 of the caramelized onions into a food processor or blender. Process until a coarse paste. Add yogurt, mayonnaise, Worcestershire, horseradish, 3/4 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon each cumin and cayenne. Process to blend smoothly. Spoon into a bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Refrigerate at least 20 minutes or up to several hours.

Serve garnished with some of the remaining onions and chopped chives. Serve with vegetables and potato chips.

Ricotta and Cotija Dip With Tomatoes and Dill

Serves 6

• 1 carton (16 ounces) ricotta cheese
• 1/2 cup (2 ounces) finely grated Cotija cheese or Asiago
• 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 clove garlic, crushed
• 1 teaspoon minced fresh dill
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
• 2 small (14 ounces total) colorful heirloom tomatoes, cored
• 2 cups assorted colors of cherry or grape tomatoes
• 1/4 cup roasted salted pumpkin seeds
• Fresh dill sprigs, chopped, for garnish
• Salt and pepper pita crisps, for serving, see recipe

Mix cheeses, 2 tablespoons of the oil, 1 clove crushed garlic, 1 teaspoon dill, and salt and pepper in a small bowl. Taste and adjust seasonings. Refrigerate 20 minutes to allow flavors to blend.

Cut heirloom tomatoes into wedges. Cut cherry tomatoes into quarters.

Spoon cheese mixture into the center of a large serving plate. Pile tomatoes in the center of the cheese, leaving a 2-inch border of cheese. Drizzle everything with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Sprinkle with pumpkin seeds and chopped dill. Garnish with dill sprigs.

Serve with cut vegetables or crispy pita crackers.

Salt and Pepper Pita Crisps

Serves 6

• 4 pocketless pita breads (14 ounces total)
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• Coarse (kosher salt)
• Freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat oven to 375 degrees F. Cut each pita into fourths. Cut each fourth into two wedges. Place on a rimmed baking sheet. Add oil and toss to coat all the pieces with the oil. Arrange in a single layer.

2. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake, turning pita over once, until golden and edges start to crisp, 10 to 15 minutes. Cool on a wire rack. Pita wedges will crisp a bit as they cool. Serve warm. Store wrapped in foil and re-crisp in the oven if needed.

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